Glossary of Coastal Terminology:
List of Figures
Figure 1: (a) The coastal zone and (b) the surf or breaker zone (Modified after USACE, 1972).
Figure 2: Seasonal cycle of a beach caused by differing wave conditions (Modified from Komar, 1998).
Figure 3: (a) Dissipative mild sloping beach with spilling breakers, (b) intermediate beach with plunging and secondary breakers, and (c) steep sloping reflective beaches (From Komar, 1998).
Figure 4: The depth of closure of an upper shoreface cross-shore profile. The shaded area indicates the total envelope of change for a time-series of profiles (Modified after Wright, 1995).
Figure 5: Features associated with accreting coasts (From Komar, 1998).
Figure 6: Longshore drift of sand on the beach face and by a longshore current within the surf zone (Modified after Plummer, et al., 1985).
Figure 7: The elements of a rip current embayment (From USACE, 1972).
Figure 8: Schematic of the principal components involved in the development of a littoral cell sediment budget (From Komar, 1996).
Figure 9: Sediment deposits usually become thinner away from the source area, and sediment grains become finer and more rounded (From Plummer, et al., 1985).
Figure 10: Types of surface waves, showing the relationships between wave length, wave frequency, the nature of the displacing forces, and the relative amounts of energy in each type of wave (From Brown, et al., 1989).
Figure 11: Types of tides: (a) Semi-diurnal, (b) Diurnal, and (c) Mixed (From Wiegel, 1953).
Figure 12: A vertical profile, showing the linear dimensions, of two successive idealized ocean waves (From Brown, et al., 1989).
Figure 13: Wave refraction on an irregular coast. Shallow water slows waves off headlands while the same waves move faster through deep bays. Arrows show energy concentrated on headlands, spread out in bays (From Plummer, et al., 1985).
Figure 14: The velocity profile for a steady current flow over a bed. The arrows indicate the direction of flow and the length of each arrow is proportional to the current velocity at the height above the bed (From Brown, et al., 1989).
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